"The St. Petersburg art Nouveau. 1890-1910-е years. The style and the socialite fashion"
ARTinvestment.RU   07 октября 2016

Exhibition about the history of fashion of the modern era was opened in the exhibition center "Hermitage-Казань" on the territory of the Kazan Kremlin

the Center "Hermitage-Казань"
5 October 2016 — on April 9 2017
Kazan, Kremlin, building cadet schools

the exhibition includes costumes and accessories in modern style, picturesque and photographic portraits of fashionable women of the era, the interior @all mdas of the State Hermitage Museum. The exhibition provides a complete picture of the "ladies ' world" of St. Petersburg at the turn of XIX–XX centuries.

the Advent of "modernism" in Russia (in France, this art style was called Art Nouveau, in England — Modern Style, and in Germany — Jugendstil) coincided with the reign of Nicholas II. By the beginning of XX century, art Nouveau reached its highest point of development in Europe and in Russia. The intent of this style, all around "man of the future" items, starting from furniture, curtains and crockery and ending with dress, hat and fan, had to obey the same General laws of harmony and beauty. The main idea of modernity was the transformation of everyday life through artistic creativity.

the art Nouveau Style traditionally associated with soft, sinuous, flowing lines, soft colors, unusual color combinations. In this sense, modern is definitely a very feminine style. And of course, he could not touch the suit — one of the main areas of life of her heroine and Muse. In the modern fashion can be traced as clearly as in painting and ornamental-прикладном art.

At the exhibition in Kazan presented clothes created by the imagination of the best designers in Paris such as Joan paken, Charles worth, Paul Poiree, sisters Callot, as well as their Russian colleagues — August Brisach in St. Petersburg and Nadezhda Lamanova, Moscow. They complement the accessories — fans, umbrellas, hats, handbags, shoes, executed in the best of St. Petersburg and Paris workshops. By example they demonstrate the changes that underwent the fashion for over three decades in the General context of design, ranging from historical reminiscences of the outgoing century and ending with the revolutionary models of the coming new century.

the Majority of exhibits come from the Anichkov and Winter palaces and mansions of the princes Yusupov and count Shuvalov, that is, from the closets of representatives of the Romanov dynasty (empresses Maria Feodorovna and Alexandra Feodorovna and Emperor Nicholas II) and the highest Russian aristocracy. Those items that were impossible to sell and impossible to wear, got in the theatrical costume houses, and partly in the Museum collection where they were subsequently transferred to the new Department of history of Russian culture of the State Hermitage. Separate collection are the suits that belonged to the actress of the Moscow theater Faith Karahan (Janeaway) and purchased Hermitage in 1971.

In General, the collection of costumes from the Museum's collection, numbering about 200 sets, the largest in Russia. Each suit — is a rare artistic phenomenon reflecting not only the tastes of its owner, and the main stylistic tendencies of the time. Thanks to the hard work of Museum conservators, they still retain their original beauty, allowing you to appreciate the high art of the masters of bygone eras.

At the exhibition you can see the toilets, which were intended for various events, be it a wedding or a court ball, a summer outing or reception in a circle of close friends. The exhibition includes paintings, drawings, photographs and applied art objects. Painting Francois Flameng, Ernst Liphart, Georges Becker and Nikolay Bogdanov-Бельского, drawings Ella Fields, photos from Atelier Elena Mrozovskaya, not only interesting in themselves but are an excellent illustrative material, allowing the audience to more fully get an idea of the appearance of people who lived over a century ago.

Presented at the exhibition of photos taken in the photographic Studio of St. Petersburg, Moscow, Kiev and Vladikavkaz, show the ladies toilets, stitched in the latest fashion. In the photos men show the ability of the officers and gentlemen with glitter to be worn as civilian clothes and military uniform. A significant part of the presented work belongs to one of the best St. Petersburg Studio "Helene de Mrozovsky" opened at the end of 1893, a student of the famous French photographer Nadar P. Elena Lukinichna Mrozovskaya (1864-1941). Atelier was popular among the aristocracy of the capital and the Russian artistic elite.

Interesting examples of graphic production, executed in the art Nouveau style, are the works of French artist Paul Cesar helleu (1859-1827), executed in the technique of dry needles. His art was a huge success in Paris, London and new-Йорке. Especially famous for its refined and elegant female characters, which became a kind of symbol of the modern epoch.

in Total, the exhibition includes more than 200 exhibits, some of which are shown for the first time.

the exhibition is accompanied By academic illustrated catalogue, author and curator of the exhibition, Yulia V. Plotnikova, senior researcher of the Department of Russian culture of the State Hermitage.

Source: museum.ru