The painting, style, fashion in the Russian Museum
Yesterday, in the case of Benoit Russian Museum opened an exhibition The painting, style, fashion, reflecting the interaction of fashion and fine art in different periods
Yesterday in the Benois wing of the Russian Museum opened the exhibition "the Painting, style, fashion". This exhibition, the Museum returned to the tradition of the so-called "complex exposures" that existed in the thirties of the last century. Her concept — fashion show in conjunction with the visual art of the era: painting, graphics, applied art.
the Exhibition covers the time period from Peter's times to the present day. The exhibition will feature more than 600 exhibits, among which more than 300 paintings and drawings, 200 — decorative-прикладного art. Portraits and genre paintings, dresses and suits, uniforms and wigs, furniture and household items, stained glass and weapons, sketches of hats and fabrics, posters and signs. Specially for the exhibition by the famous designer T. Parfyonova made dvenadtsatistrunnye installation "Fashion-2009".
the evolution of the hairstyles presented in the reconstruction of the wigs —, men and women, which was especially important part of the iconographic tradition of the XVIII — beginning of the XIX century.
Along with the Russian Museum, take part in the exhibition of the state Museum "Peterhof", State Museum of history St.-Петербурга, State memorial Museum of A. C. Suvorov Military-исторический Museum of artillery, engineer and signal corps. For the first time in large volume will feature items from private collections Tehmeneva, N. Kostrikina, T. Parfyonova, P. Novbari, M. Suslov, and others.
Until recently, fashion was considered in the best case, as monuments of material culture, with memorial significance. At the exhibition "the Painting, style, fashion" exhibits this kind: silk robe of Peter the great, the shirt of the Emperor Paul (which, according to legend, it was the day of the murder). However, they are represented in the context of the era in a single "aura" with visual arts of the time. After all, the very concept of "fashion" is much broader than the history of costume. Along with other auxiliary historical disciplines, fashion is a reliable Foundation stylistic iconographic basis for the study of pictorial, sculptural or graphic portraits.
the Exhibition is in chronological order and includes several sections, each of which reflects the development of fashion in Russia in different time periods and different relationship with her art. For the characteristics of each historical period of selected works of art which for him was the most meaningful, the most typical, most accurately reflects the aesthetic needs of society.
the exhibition presents a rare series paranich images of the so-called "Transfiguration series" the first quarter of XVIII century, when the painting is of particular importance for the formation of the national art school. The development of fashionable and courtly fashion in the eighteenth century increased the production of luxury goods, decorative-прикладного andmonumental art: porcelain, glass, stained glass, mosaics. A portrait of a noble lady was both a carefully drawn portrait of outfit that helped to appreciate the importance and wealth depicted.
a Special section of the exhibition dedicated to the "Kolokol'tsovskogo" Salam (the first third of the XIX century), watercolor portrait ("Pushkin's time"), interior in Russian painting of the second third of the XIX century, a variety of examples of artistic craft in the second half of the century (the era of the so-called "historicism"). The middle of the XIX century in Russia — is "the Golden age of fashion" and at the same time the emergence of the "antibody" — manifestations of deliberate nihilism in clothes and hair as a way of expressing social protest.
By the XX century in architecture and decorative applied art was most reflected the art Nouveau style, which dedicated part of the exhibits and costumes and furniture from the collections of the Russian Museum, the stained glass Windows from the State Museum of history St.-Петербурга. Ladies ' dress and accessories of that era used a variety of materials, a paradoxical combination of colors, embroidery with beads and beads. Dress of the modern era has always been the result of the individual order, such as the creation of the famous national dressmaker and fashion designer N. Lamanova.
Significantly affected the overall trend in the fashion of Russian artists and designers of the early XX century — A. Rodchenko, Vladimir Tatlin, A. Exter, A. schekatihina-Потоцкая, L. Popova, N. Suetin, K. Malevich, S. Chekhonin. The well-known work. Suetin in textiles, and K. Malevich — in China. The works of these artists simplicity, functionality and affordability combined with the simultaneous solution of propaganda-пропагандистских tasks. The viewer will be interested in such exhibits from the Russian Museum collection as a swimsuit with a portrait of Vladimir Mayakovsky (A. Khlobystin), as well as dresses 1920-х years with Suprematist ornament, made from sketches by L. Popova.
Since the early 1930-х years every manifestation of interest in fashion, any deviation from the strict standard start stopped and regarded by the authorities as "bourgeois degeneration". House models now focus on the production of massive samples, the majority of the population acquires the clothes that came down the conveyors garment factories. In Vogue paramilitary Frenchy called "Stalinka". The art of the Soviet time, the objective conditions were focused on priority development of "high" types (painting and sculpture).
a New period of development of fashion in Russia begins in 1980-х, when the Hermitage opened the exhibition Yves Saint-Лорана (1987) and the domestic audience acquainted with the concept of "Fashion house". The exhibition in the Russian Museum presents the works of fashion designers of the new time: "dresses-квадраты" T. Parfyonova, "School dresses" K. Goncharov, "Sewn dresses" M. Zhukova, dress Chapulines "Remembering the Black square" from the Russian Museum collection and also costumes of the First London competition "Alternative miss World 1998" (Irena Kuksenaite), costumes "Chip" V. Vinogradova, etc. works of art, thematically related to fashion, such as "gardenscapes" and Pakhomov, There are coming G. Pusenkoff, based on the photosHelmut Newton, Fashion Klintsova A. (2009), photo- and videos from the fashion shows of the mid-twentieth century complement the overall picture of the interaction of fashion and art in recent decades. In addition, visitors can find out more about how the two are related through the interactive multimedia program "Fashion as art".
the Feature of the exhibition is the extensive use of decorative-прикладного art — furniture, bronze, porcelain, but above all sample dresses, accessories, objects, household products, that is, those subjects which are usually included in the broad definition of "fashion".
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