Today Gallery “On Solianke” of the International fotofestivalya “Fashion and Style in Photography 2009” Exhibition “Close to the body. Russian costume in Photographs XIX - XXI century. ”

Today, Gallery «On Solianke» of the International fotofestivalya «Fashion and Style in Photography 2009» Exhibition «Close to the body. Russian costume in Photographs XIX - XXI centuries .».

Apparel - «second skin» people, everyday necessity, a work of art, the projection of identity, political weapons, stores of goods, means of temptation, the photographic object ...

Clothing folk, folk costume - a curious historical phenomenon of living on its own logic, which svoeobychnuyu design and palette, «omuzeenny» and stored, reconstructed and recorded millions of images. The project - photographic digest Russian folk costume from ethnographic photographs to contemporary art.

Russian traditional costume, began to emerge in the XII - XIII centuries, and until the beginning of the XVIII century, were the kings and princes, boyars and merchants, artisans and peasants. Female silhouette in the traditional culture until the mid-twentieth century, shaped rectangular ponevny (Southern) and a triangular-trapezoidal sarafan (severorussky) complexes. Men's dress and in the south and in northern Russia was much more uniform and less female: shirt-kosovorotku podvyazyvali zone «under puzom» and produced over the narrow, filled in the boots of pants-ports. Sami form of dress (the proportion of colors) naturally correspond to certain anthropological type: rusovolosye and svetloglazye severyanki in festive costume preferred range of pastel and elongated shape, dark-haired and temnoglazye southerners operated contrasting black and white and red palette.

With the coming to power of Peter I is time to «political censorship» costume: a special decree in 1700 in Russia entered the city on the West European model costume. Catherine II continued to follow the suit of its subjects, but when it first occurs Board «fashion to Russian». According to court etiquette (1782), in some solemn days ladies had to be to the court in the «Russian dress» - sarafans on the bodice and skirt.

Next Wave «Russian Fashion» has been linked to the Patriotic War of 1812: while in Europe, has become red and blue Russian sarafan with Empire (high) waist. Nicholas I introduces (1834) A new court dress, plus kokoshniki, and when Alexander III at the highest military ranks appear uniform with the elements of «Russian» cut.

In the second half of XIX - early XX century in large cities have proliferated in costume Sc. «Psevdorusskom style», consisting of a dress or skirt with a jacket decorated with embroidery instead of hand-made lace and braid production factory. The whole outfit was complemented with ribbons, beads, scarves and other accessories, referring to the popular peasant clothes. In rich families, breastfeeding and the nanny wore kokoshniki and sarafan, which they «professional» costume, a kind of uniform.

Since its appearance in Russia in the middle of the XIX century, photography has become one of the most effective means of documenting people's lives and the creation of multiple distributed worldwide postcards and album Sc. «Russians types», domestic and genre scenes, portraits of the peasants in national costumes.

Russian costume, traumatized by political reforms, was to revive the Russian art: ceasing to be a historical reality, it becomes a cultural symbol. The subjects in the folk theme - Pushkin and Bazhova, Ostrovsky and Sholokhova become classic - played in theaters, ekraniziruyutsya cinematography. «Type» become typecasting, «the actors in the roles» costumes Vrubel and Bilibina remove leading photographic studios in the country ... XX century photogenic folk costume visualized cinema: historical films, films, stories, comedy ... At the studios albums compiled huge screen, massive numbers differ magazines, postcards, posters, flyers.

amateur and Sovetskaya Estrada, using «folk» motifs and themes, and sometimes bring them to the kitsch. Kitsch it exposes and turn in contemporary art, where Russian folk costume becomes an attribute of performances and installations.

Photo, «remembering» on Venetsianov and Vasnetsova , repeating poses and gestures, found painters and schedules, returns its duty: to write photographic cards paintings, watercolor paint, make pictures. Photography, experimenting with a palette, light and optics, obygryvaya plots and selecting the model, creates its own original «picture of the world», offers his views on reality.

To mark the opening of the project WORD publisher released a catalog of the exhibition «Russian costume in pictures. Metamorphoses ».

The exhibition can be visited in the exhibition hall «At Solianke» (Solyanka, 1/2, p. 2, entrance from the street. Zabelina) from 17 April to 10 May from 12.00 to 20.00, on any day except for Monday.

Source: mdf.ru