The Istanbul Museum of modern art
Source: the guardian.co.uk

On the Istanbul Independence Avenue moving tank. Sternly shaking his muzzle, he goes into the side of the new center for contemporary art Arter. On his way — two middle-aged women in the Kurdish scarves. They attract their grandchildren; presses behind the crowd. Independence Avenue — equivalent of London's Oxford-стрит or new-йоркской Fifth Avenue — since 1960-х years saw at least one coup (or attempt thereof) in the decade. What will happen now — Turkish Tiananmen? Not at all: the tank-то actually inflatable. Under the laughter of the passers-by he rises on his hind legs right in front of the center and immediately deflates like a balloon. A joke understood by everyone.

this month Turkey will hold a referendum on constitutional reform, designed to significantly restrict the political influence of the military. Recently even about such to think was impossible. In the last ten years, the country underwent a radical change, and nowhere have they not manifested itself so brightly as in the cultural sphere. Years of censorship and stagnation are gone that was marked, in particular, the surge in international interest in Turkish contemporary culture. Orhan Pamuk (Orhan Pamuk) received the Nobel prize for literature, outstanding Directors of the new generation — Nuri bilge Ceylan the (Nuri Bilge Ceylan), Fatih akin (Fatih Akin), Semih Kaplanoglu (Semih Kaplanoglu) — were awarded prizes at film festivals in Cannes, Berlin and Venice -- But mostly the change is felt the world of fine art.

Five years ago, when in the port of Karakoy only-только opened Museum of modern art (Istanbul Modern), Istanbul — is the largest city in Europe, with a population of about 13 million people, — was a real "cultural desert". And this year he carries the title of European capital of culture and prides itself on fashion for the construction of private museums, which the world has not seen since the days of the famous philanthropist Andrew Carnegie (Andrew Carnegie). The richest families of the country actually compete with each other — who will bring together the largest and most expensive collection. Since the clan Ekzachibashi allocated funds for Istanbul Modern, some families managed to introduce to the world two or three museums.

the Living proof that in Turkey, the art has its audience, became the show-блокбастеры Picasso and Dali who made his Museum on the Bosphorus bankers Sabanci, one of the first to start spending on culture is a Grand amount. Them belongs to the Museum of contemporary art Elgiz, the Borusan Foundation (which includes a Symphony orchestra) and the Garanti Bank, which is now engaged in the construction of a huge complex, with an area five times the Turbine hall of London's Tate Modern.

Turkish art most addicted to the heirs of a captain of industry the Koch Vehbi (Vehbi Koç). His daughter, Kirac Suna (Suna Kıraç), not so long ago founded the luxurious Pera Museum, and also the Foundation of this clan is behind the center of Arter, which we mentioned in the beginning of the article. This is the second they open a modern art gallery. To stop the heirs do not intend: they plan — is yet another major Museum.

the Head of Arter, Omer koç (Koç Ömer) — man of great erudition, fluent speaker in three languages. This patron of the arts would be proud of and Florence of the XVI century. The center, which occupies a seven-storey building on the most expensive street in Turkey and has first-class meeting, he finds only a modest beginning. "Our first exhibition was called Starter ("starter"), because we have many different dishes... In Turkish art has a great future and we want to be known to the whole world", — he says.

the family Foundation Koch actively allocates funds for exhibitions of Turkish art abroad. In addition, last year's Istanbul biennial, which caused great excitement in the press, was organized especially for their money (while the state did not provide almost anything). Ironically, the exhibition was devoted to the crisis of capitalism... the activities of the heirs of billionaire approve not all: some critics called it "a bloated rich people bubble" that has a value only for a small stratum of residents of the capital.

the Nouveau riche, more committed to religion and is known as the "Anatolian tigers", unlike their neighbors on the list of richest people in Turkey prefer to invest in politics or religious organizations like "movement of Fethullah Gulen". Culture they spend little; they are only interested in what supports a lurid fantasy about the Ottoman past. But here, differently. Recently, for example, billionaire Ulker Murat (Murat Ülker) has laid out a six figure sum for the painting of the successor of Ottoman aristocrats Fahrelnissa Zeid (Fahrelnissa Zeid), in the style of Fauvism. And the daily newspaper Zaman, whose sponsored Gulen encourages his religious readers to pay more attention to the art.

as for the artists, for them, according to the rising star of Jevdet EREC (Cevdet Erek), the current boom means one thing: the decision to stay and work in Turkey now is not tantamount to "professional suicide." Many of the artists went back to their homeland. Among them @the mdas Vahap Avsar (Vahap Avsar), which is not even frightened by the prospect to serve in the army, he escaped, emigrated 15 years ago. "Right-таки felt that Istanbul has that-то to happen. His time will come", — he says.

Those who have not yet shared with Asaram this is truly a magical feeling to go to Hasköy district and walk along the winding streets from the Golden Horn to the foundry Lutty-бея, which would have recognized himself the God of the Volcano. In a dark room deep in the building you can see the stunning installation of the new-йоркского artist Serge Spitzer (Serge Spitzer) titled "Molecular Istanbul" — thousands peering from black glass beads. Earlier this place was the synagogue, where they prayed came from Spain the Jews. Now they are in the area almost does not remain... For many years here succeeded each other the poor community of immigrants and refugees; lived in the district and the family of the present Prime-министра — Recep Tayyip Erdogan (Recep Tayyip saved).

Here no one talks about money; nor the curator Esra Nilgun Mirza (Esra Nilgün Mirzа), neither artist has received for their work any money. "Installation belongs to [local residents], — says Mirza. — no one ever thought about the fact that these people can-то to give culture. They were ignored and despised. But they can tell you very much. If you see that your culture is respected, we feel that we can find a common language with other".

the Material was prepared Yulia Maksimova, AI

Sources: guardian.co.uk, artinvestment.ru